Bocca della Verita

Today was another adventure with the motorino. Check these photos out. I seemed to understand the motorino rules better now. You're allowed to weave in and out of the traffic and even get away with driving on the wrong side of the road, which these photos will show. It seems that there is a hierarchy with traffic movement. First are the pedestrians, then the bikes, then the motorinos, then the motorcycles, and then any motor vehicle with doors. Buses are the last on the list and taxi drivers behave with motorino rules. If there is space for you to move in you are allowed to go there and don't be surprised if five others follow you. In Hawai'i, we'd definitely punch a few guys in the throat if someone behaved thusly.... Eh there's another word I never thought I'd write in a sentence too.

Ok. We first went to the Bocca della Verita which is a marbled flatten disk that was once a fountain. It is rumored to be the mouth of truth and if one sticks their hand into the mouth and answers a question with a lie, the mouth will bite your arm off. The church that houses this marvel is the church of St. Valentine. People flock by the hundreds to stand in line and take their turn with sticking their hand in the mouth. The church puts a collection box out front. When you're done you are ushered through the church and then out another door. We pass Palatine hill and then head toward the Piazza del Popolo. That's Pope-a-low. I made the mistake of calling it popolo like well... popolo. But it isn't.

We have lunch at Ana's. I try some lemon sauced veal, grilled vegetables, grilled squid cabbage(radicchio) stuffed with prosciutto and for dessert, mozzarella bufalo and prosciutto.

We just got back tonight from walking around the Center in the evening. Like a woman who dresses up in the evening with cocktail dress, fancy shoes and make up, so too do the streets and land features in Roma. Everything changes its appearance. So we went to some of the fountains, the pantheon and other landmarks to see the change with our own eyes. The cab driver who takes us back to our B&B didn't know much about the world beyond Rome, but knew intimate stories about his homeland. According to Alohalani, his description of the historical evening decorations of the Basilica was very sweet and picturesque.

Well.... That's all I have to report for this evening. I'm going to bed as we will be catching a train to meet Kim at the airport.

Ciao kakou!

Kalei Nu'uhiwa

(c) 2009 Naleialoha.net

Early morning

It's the "early" morning quiet that woke me this morning. I guess I've finally entered officially into Roman time. I have brought my computer and camera outside to dutifully write my blog entry, which by the way happens to be one day late. Sorry.

I also made my first Italian coffee with steamed milk foam. My daughter who used to work at Starbucks would be proud of me. The sounds of people getting ready for a new day begin. Pigeons are cooing, wings are flapping and seagulls are already squawking, complaining as they pass high over my head. The sounds of traffic have just begun too. It's the eighth and I'm sitting outside on the lanai where Alohalani wrote about the evening sky. I too cannot help but write about the beautiful sky. The 'Olekukahi moon is setting in the west. Hokulei, Capella, is at my zenith. It seems so odd to see Hokupa, or Auriga directly above my head. A big bright orange planet is also next to the twins and I cannot immediately place it. It's probably Mars, but I am unsure. Kekaomakali'i is also directly above me and their orientation seems almost upside down as I am high north from the equator. Nanamua & Nanahope are prominent in the sky and I understand why they were important ancient gods to the Romans. These are my gods too and old familiar friends. I also notice that stars don't twinkle here so you cannot tell which are planets and which are stars. These old familiar friends, out of place in the lewa make me miss home. If I were home right now in Hilo I'd be watching some random show on the TV, listening to the rain on the roof and researching one thing or the other about ancient days and history of Hawai'i. Funny how I'm doing exactly the same thing here on my "vacation," no? The only difference is that I'm writing about my experiences in the present while walking through courtyards, castles, halls and walls of someone else's ancient past. You cannot fall too far away from the tree, I suppose, no matter how far you uproot your tree. Hah! Ok, enough with the profundity.

Yesterday we spent a good chunk of the morning at Castel Sant' Angelo. Most may recall this fortress as one of the main locations for the story Angels and Demons. If you have ever seen or read a story where castles, dragons, nights and fair maidens were involved, this place would've been the epitome of your imagination. There's a deep moat surrounding the foundation of the hill, which I've learned is actually a manmade hill. The Tiber river fronts the castle's angel bedecked bridge and the entire building is surrounded with a steep impending wall full of nooks, crannies and purposeful angled windows to drop hot oil, shoot guns or levy canon balls the size of basketballs at any enemy. It's a perfect place to conjure up all those stories you may've read about ancient battles. But wait a minute, what am I thinking?.... Those stories actually did transpire here. Firstly, Castel Sant' Angelo was once the tomb of a Roman emperor named Hadrian. I think he had the building constructed to be his and his family's tomb. He had the entire place decorated with statues of angels and on the top of the roof where the archangel Michael now stands, was a huge bronze four horse drawn chariot called a quadriga. Hadrian also commissioned the construction of the bridge with all the angels as well. I'm pretty sure the angels were not holding all the implements of the passion of Christ then as Christianity wasn't big yet when Hadrian was alive. My feeling is that those additions had been included later. The model seen above is what some ancient texts and drawings have illustrated. It sort of looks like a huge birthday cake.

My understanding is that the place later becomes a tomb or mausoleum for many other emperors and aristocrats of the Roman empire until a dude named Caracalla. There once were urns that held the ashes of these folks in the center of the building.

Some 400 years after Hadrian the place is recycled and turned into a military fortress. However at the fall of the Roman empire the infamous Visigoths burn the place down. Then the Catholics came into power and turned the place into a Papal fortress. At some point Popes reside in the castle and like the story of Angels & Demons explains, had an underground passageway built between the Basilica and the castle. Raphael, Michelangelo's apprentice, sculpts a marble statue of Saint Michael with a sword representing the triumph over the plague. The place later becomes a prison and is now a background where operas and stories are being told. Hence the opera Tosca and now the story we seem to be familiar with. By the way, the folks here were in an uproar over the book and the movie.

What does the place look like? Everything you'd imagine a castlewould with a bridge, circular hallways large enough for three men on horseback to ride and ramparts.... hey there's a word I never thought I'd ever use in a sentence.... filled with canons, cannon balls and a huge ass crossbow the size of a Toyota truck. From the very top of the castle my mind goes into creativity at its best. I can imagine the trebuchets launching fiery boulders from across the Tiber river, large horse drawn wagons with mangonels and battle rams attempting to get into the fortress. I see crossbows being launched, hear sounds of blades being unsheathed and of course the horrific sounds of men & women in battle. Sort of invigorating. Then I'm brought right back to where I am today as the saxophone player for the MTV concert of Michael Buble is practicing discordantly on the other side of the castle. Shucks. What's at the top of the castle you're asking? A bar. What about under the huge angel? Tourists. Present company included.

Got a good workout from walking up all the stairs too.

Then off on the motorino we went to go find the shoe store that had some gorgeous shoes Alohalani wanted. Good thing I'm not a navigator cause I couln't find that damn store. However we did find another store that provided lovely shoes for Alohalani. K, I did think about getting a pair for myself but let's be real. I'm as kanak as they get, hate closed toed shoes and love Italian sandals & slippers. No more any sandals right now cause it's fall going into winter which means only a coocoo bird would be wanted open toed shoes right now. Ahhhhh.

E Kalani & Aunty Pua, I had the best glass of Brunello today for lunch with a parmesan cheese/tomato/arugula pizza for antipasti then a plate of straccetti (strah-chet-ee) for the main meal. I nevah know that the food was going be so 'ono and the plates would have so much of it in one serving. Haven't eaten dinner for two days straight now due to the huge lunches I've been engorging myself on. No biggie though. I'll go back on my diet when I go home.

K, well. I'm supposed say something about myself in these blogs by the request of some of you. So let me say that I came to Rome because it was a happy birthday wish if my friend. I stand before many buildings that Kalakaua himself stood before, contemplating how his palace would be constructed. I have also stood before many sacred sites in Hawai'i

contemplating how my ancestors created them and contemplating how I will save those same

places. For me, time runs simultaneously. We talk about the past, are moving towards the future while standing in the immediate present. So when I come to Rome and see the many civilizations that have risen, fallen and risen again as something else but in the same shell not too far from their predecessors, I know that Hawaiians can do the same. I can appreciate many things but only through the eyes of a Hawaiian scholar who knows her culture well. Yep.... Same stars above my head..... Same stars indeed.

K den Gangeh..... Lataz....

Kalei Nu'uhiwa

(c) 2009 Naleialoha.net

Our Day at the Vatican

Howzit Gangeh! Hope all is well in Hawai'i. I hear that Lono has entered into our Hawaiian scene with flashing skies and deep rolling celestial drum rolls announcing his entrance, as expected for this time, ea? First, I must apologize for this posting as there won't be as many accompanying photos with today's story as with previous postings. I took so many photos (1,093), my camera is still downloading them. I will try and get some up immediately after the downloading and the battery recharge.

We donned our head panties and helmets and off we went on the motorino again. Nice way to get the blood pumping in the morning. We tried to find a shoe store we saw the day previously but couldn't. We took care of morning business by checking out another open market area. This one had fresh cut flowers, ocean creatures, wine, vinegar, olive oil, cheeses, meats, olives, vegetables, fruit, the latest pottery and even vegetable cutters. Bought some olives and cut pottery than off again to the Vatican.

Today was all about the Vatican City. I learned that Vatican City is a whole country all onto itself. It is the smallest country in the world measuring approximately 17 miles. It's surrounded by a wall that I'm sure in its hay day would've been impenetrable. The walls are built so that a huge army would have to be pretty innovative to climb them. It's built at a steep slant on the bottom and than topped off with a sheer 75 foot fortification. Kind of made me wonder why.

I'm unsure as to how much I should write about my personal feelings regarding the Vatican as I'm sure others feel overwhelmed with some sort of spirituality. The place was constructed to make you feel small and insignificant. You definitely feel the political power and might the forefathers of this place created and, may I boldly state, still orchestrate. Tombs of dead Popes and rich benefactors were ominous. I saw two nuns praying solemnly on their knees before the tomb of Pope John Paul the II. For me, I can appreciate and understand everyones desire for sanctity. I saw the famous La Pietra sculpture and mailed postcards to my family members from the Vatican post office. It'll probably arrive in Hawai'i in two months.

They're getting ready for the canonization too. Chairs and stages have been set up. They're expecting over 100,000 people for the event. A total of 5 individuals, including Father Damien, will be canonized. I think that's all I will say about that and the Vatican.

The Sistine Chapel was manaful. The sculptures, marble, paintings, tapestries and maps were phenomenal. Marble shaped to look like soft folding cascading robes were exquisite. Gold, ochre and cobalt paintings were painstakingly painted to give the murals a three dimensional effect. You cannot tell sometimes if the art you are looking at is an actual sculpture or painting. Raphael & Michelangelo's paintings and sculptures were breathtaking. I found more spirituality there within those painted halls and ceilings than in other areas. We left tired and drained and returned home to recover. We drank two glasses campari soda (tastes like gasoline and grapefruit) to ease our tired bones. Over all a day that I will reflect and ponder over as time goes on.

Ciao Gangeh!

Kalei Nu'uhiwa

(c) 2009 Naleialoha.net

Virtual motorino & market

Aloha kakou e ku'u mau hoa heluhelu,Bongiorno!

Well nothing major to report today so I thought I'd take you on a virtual tour of the Trastevere markets we visited today. So lets begin with the crazy motorino ride.

These first four pictures are a truncated version of the crazy ride we took this morning on the busy highway. We were taking Cristoforo's school bag to him in school. Notice the speed by which drivers move inches from us, along with the obstacles and other motorinos vying for the same speed and space. Weeeeee!

It's all about food today as our main excursion was to forage for lunch at the many markets and shops of Trastevere. We then headed towards Travestere to shop for fresh vegetables, cheese, prosciutto & bread from the markets. We decided that we'd have lunch in one of the lovely jogging parks in Rome.

When you arrive at the market, your senses are assaulted by the many aromas of known and unknown vegetables and fruits. Imagine this, every color you see in the photos equal the various fragrances and scents wafting from the choice edibles.

We make our way to the next market and find bags of grains, nuts, rice and beans of every kind imagined. Sacks of pine nuts, hazel nuts, almonds and others unknown to me are stacked. Bottles, tin cans, jars and containers of all kinds of things are neatly stacked on shelves and counter tops. TheThe colors are as pleasing to the eye as the aromas are pleasing to the nose. The din of church bells in the distance, motorinos buzzing by, truck reverse alarms beeping and people boisterously laughing or arguing sums up the experience of the Trastevere market. We walk over to the deli where pastas are hung from the ceiling, cheeses are on display and huge jars of red wine vinegar invite you to take them home. The people in the deli are charming and eager to fulfill our every wish. Laughter roles easily off their tongues as do stories of the farmers selling their wares in their tents. These folks are also honest as they gesture towards another market where we can find the smaller bottles of the prized Balsamic vinegar and local olive oil. The

place smells of herbs and oil. Mmmmmmm. Again the businessmen great us with a vigorous "Bonjiorno." We buy our oil and vinegar

and then quickly cross the street towards another market that has meat, bread and cheese. The fire oven bread looks sooooooo delicious. The puffed hollowed buns are what we get with a nodding approval from the older woman sitting behind the register with aging prosciutto hanging over her head. She's clearly the matriarch of the place. Italians love food like they love life. Everything is done with a sense of pride.

We get back on to the motorino and up we go on a steep hill to a lovely park that lawyers, doctors and accountants exercise in. The park was once someone's estate turn

ed over to the government for some reason or other. There are 100 year old pines, endemic palms, and remnant fountains of a luxurious time gone by. The walls and stairs we see are larger than life. We get to a bench and break open our collected wares. Yummy cheese soft like sour cream but smooth like butter. Salty sweet prosciutto sliced so think you can see through the paper it's wrapped in. Fresh pop bread, water from the famous aqua ducts (aqueducts) cherry tomatoes and real Roman green olives.... Ahhh.. I think I'm spoiled for life. Nothing in the cans or jars at home come close.

Tomorrow we go to the Vatican and the Castle Sant Angelo..... Can't wait....

Ciao!

Kalei Nu'uhiwa

(c) 2009 Naleialoha.net

na iwi koena - remaining skeltons

Aloha kakou e na hoa heluhelu (Greetings to our reading friends),

Today was a day where time seemed to mix together. Alohalani and I walked from our B&B to the Colosseum. It's roughly a five mile walk, give or take a

few feet. The walking was good as we have been eating more than we

normally do. We walked pretty quickly along the early morning streets. The lighting was perfect for photos. Kinda hard to take

a bad photo with Roman scenery as colorful and picturesque. The first thing we come upon is a lovely flower shop with yellow sunflowers as bright as our sun rising in the east. We pass restaurants with smells of fresh baked pastries and cappuccino, newstands with the latest about the disastrous mudslides down south. The morning light

brings out the reds, oranges and golds of the red brick walls all around us. The same colors again revealed to us by our welcoming sunflowers. Cars are bustling about as Sunday is the busiest day for the vatican and other historical sites.

We cross bridges that pass over the Tiber River and up through narrow streets. The cacophony of church bells resonate throughout the alleyways with discordant clangs reminiscent of someone hitting cast iron kettles.

We continue on as folks pass us on their way to Sunday services. The architecture here is so different here. Craftsmen still pride themselves over their work. Door knobs are not just doorknobs. They're works of art. Light fixtures become dragons. Wind sills become art. We stop for a quick bite to eat. You must stand at the counter to drink your cappuccino and eat your chosen meal. For us this morning we had mozzarella and tomato sandwiches with the crusts cut off. You quickly

eat and drink as others are also waiting to eat as well. Off we continue towards history. We first stop at the foot of the Capitoline Hill and see modern buildings with winged bronze figures and chariots pulled by fierce horses next to broken remnants of fresco red brick walls a juxtaposition of what we are about to find just around the corner.

Then we climb up these majestic steps guarded by black marbled lions and the ancient twin gods Castor & Pollux, Nanamua & Nanahope themselves. We are standing on Capitoline Hill being watched by impending Roman statues. They look down upon us as if to remind us that we are short timers and they will be standing long after we've gone. This courtyard and buildings were designed by Michael Angelo himself in the 1500s. I'm thinking to myself that the Kaulike dynasty is ruling on Maui simultaneously. Trippy. We come upon Marcus Aurelius as he sits nobly upon his menacing steed. Romulus and Remus are also seen watched over by Minerva, the goddess of wisdom born of her father's brain. I am quickly reminded of our Goddess Haumea who also was in her latter life born of the brain. I thought of Kamohoali'i who is also the keeper of ancestral memories, also born of his mother's brain. Hoihoi keia ia'u. Romulus and Remus are set afloat the Tiber river to be saved and nursed by an Estruscan wolf mother. Remus is given the country but Romulus is given the treasury, the means to overcome and conquer over his brother. Very similar to Maui, Hakau & 'Umi, Kiwala'o & Kamehameha. I cannot help but find similarities in Hawaiian & Roman history.

We come upon the Forum and walk through the prison of the apostles. We marvel at the great columns and remnant structures that are still standing, some 2,500 years later. The bits and pieces of once imperial buildings are strewn about on the ground. Remaining cobblestone pathways with ancient chariot ruts are reminders of the activity that once occurred here. The ali'i hill known as Palatino Hill looms over us with beautiful citrus, olive and flower laden gardens. Grottos, fountains and sounds of flowing water remind me that those who own water yield power.

Our next visit is the colosseum. I cannot help but remember Chuck Norris and Bruce Lee's final battle played out within one of these circled walls. So silly, but that's my immediate connection to the place. When you walk into the place the burnt and blacken walls remind you quickly about the fiery siege that took place at the fall of Rome. When we walk through the entry ways and find ourselves surrounded by the massive circular and arched walls one cannot help but feel small and insignificant. The central lower alleys and rooms quickly remind you of the horrified fascination some must've felt for the crazed gladiators and hungry exotic animals fighting one another. They say that the very first elevators were built here and that the whole colosseum was covered by a canopied top. Wow! Simply marvelous..... These iwi koena, remnant skeletons, of a society which once owned nearly the whole world are wondrous indeed.

We leave knowing that we must return as we really didn't get to spend time in other areas. So I suppose we shall do that tomorrow. Stay tuned for the next posting of Hawaiians in Italy.

Ciao Gangeh!

Kalei Nu'uhiwa

(c) 2009 Naleialoha.net